Pizza

The export hit from Bella Italia is an invention of the Neapolitans.

A thin base that gets its appetising aroma and the light, airy bubbles in the dough by being baked in a wood oven, is complemented by simple toppings - the trademarks of a good pizza are easily recognized.

The question about its origin is more difficult. Almost every ancient culture, from the Egyptians to the residents of Pompeii knew a predecessor of pizza. The Romans brought their gods baked flatbread as a sacrificial offering; people in China ate a flat, seasoned bread made of rice flour centuries ago, and in Turkey a meat pizza called Lahmacun has existed since time immemorial.

The first pizza - as we know it today - was baked in the 18th century in the stone ovens of Naples: a flatbread of yeast dough topped with chopped tomatoes and mozzarella, seasoned with herbs and garlic. The characteristic curved edge has formed the "cornicione" - the framework for the ingredients - ever since.

For a long time pizza was considered the food of the poor. Until 1889 that is, when Queen Margarethe of Savoy had become tired of fine French cuisine. She had the best pizza baker in Naples summoned to the Palazzo di Capodimonte - and ate a pizza in the colours of the Italian Tricolour, topped with tomatoes, basil and mozzarella. This was the birth of Pizza Margherita.

The second "genuine Neapolitan" variation, Pizza Marinara ("sailor style") with tomatoes, garlic, oregano and olive oil is also very popular everywhere today. Thanks to the Italian emigrants, who opened pizzerias throughout Europe and North America, both originals have become known all over the world.

This triumphal march was followed by numerous, often unfortunately less tasty creations. For this reason, pizza bakers in Naples formed the "Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana" in 1984, an association that protects the Neapolitan original and also awards a quality seal to selected pizzerias.

Text: Kim Leclaire